Finland: Helsinki is A City of Surprises
STORY BY PAUL HUGHES, 2019
Helsinki is the capital and largest urban area of Finland and, while the greater area has more than 1.5 million residents, Helsinki city has less than half that number and is recognised as one of the most sparsely-populated major cities in Europe.
Which is why we were surprised that our initial impression moving from the cruise terminal was that the city appeared congested. Admittedly there were perhaps 6,000 to 8,000 extra visitors due to the number of cruise ships moving in and out of the port, but the streets were much narrower than similar cities we had recently visited and seemed crowded with its network of electric trams and dozens of buses making there way along the narrow streets.
As we made our way towards the Market Square we uncovered a vibrant, open and relaxed city with dozens of great cafes and restaurants and enjoyed some outstanding lattes at the Esplanad cafe and bakery, where we relaxed in comfortable surrounds and caught up with our online activities using their excellent free wifi.
Helsinki is the capital and largest urban area of Finland and, while the greater area has more than 1.5 million residents, Helsinki city has less than half that number and is recognised as one of the most sparsely-populated major cities in Europe.
Which is why we were surprised that our initial impression moving from the cruise terminal was that the city appeared congested. Admittedly there were perhaps 6,000 to 8,000 extra visitors due to the number of cruise ships moving in and out of the port, but the streets were much narrower than similar cities we had recently visited and seemed crowded with its network of electric trams and dozens of buses making there way along the narrow streets.
As we made our way towards the Market Square we uncovered a vibrant, open and relaxed city with dozens of great cafes and restaurants and enjoyed some outstanding lattes at the Esplanad cafe and bakery, where we relaxed in comfortable surrounds and caught up with our online activities using their excellent free wifi.
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We were particularly impressed by how clean Helsinki was and how the Market Place with its dozens of stalls opened onto the busy port with tour boats, ferries, pleasure craft and ships framing the view across the Gulf of Finland and some if its 315 islands. No wonder there are more than 11,000 marine berths in the city! The quay is only 8.8 metres (less than 29 feet) deep at the main pier, and the whole harbour freezes over in winter when the temperature drops to below -30C.
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Helsinki Harbour and Cathedral - Photo by Tapio Haaja Helsinki Harbour in winter - Photo by Jaakko Keppainen
We were also surprised to discover the Helsinki Central Park was more than three times the size of Central Park in New York, which contributes to the low population density as it stretches more than 10 kilometres from the very heart of the city to its northern border. Obviously the 1,000 hectares (almost 2,500 acres) of trees contributes to the clean, fresh atmosphere; enhances its reputation of having one of the highest urban standards of living in the world; and helps it to constantly be ranked in the world’s top 10 most liveable cities.
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There is so much to see and do in this quite small capital city. Like many cities of Europe, Helsinki has a chequered history which is not widely-known to most people living outside Europe.
The Uspensky Russian Orthodox Cathedral, with 13 towers topped by golden cupolas, is one of two churches that sit perched on the harbour skyline. Decked out in mable, gold, crosses and altars it was completed in 1868 and, as well as being the largest orthodox church in Europe, it is a constant reminder of Russian influence in the region.
The Uspensky Russian Orthodox Cathedral, with 13 towers topped by golden cupolas, is one of two churches that sit perched on the harbour skyline. Decked out in mable, gold, crosses and altars it was completed in 1868 and, as well as being the largest orthodox church in Europe, it is a constant reminder of Russian influence in the region.
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While archeological discoveries show the area was occupied by Tavastians over 1,000 years ago, the coast was colonised by Swedish invaders late in the 13th century. King Gustav 1 of Sweden established Helsinki as a trading town in 1550 with the hope of making it better than Reval, now known as Tallinn, which we absolute loved. We discovered that control of the city fluctuated back and forth between Russia and Sweden for more than 200 years before it became the Grand Duchy of Finland under the Russian Empire in 1809 and became the independent county of Finland in 1918.
Evidence of these upheavals and changes in control are evident throughout the city, giving a kaleidoscope of different building styles that somehow seem to fit with the world-leading modern architectural styles found in such buildings as the Kamppi Chapel of Silence (below left) and the circle-shaped Ympyratalo office building in th Hakaniema district.
Evidence of these upheavals and changes in control are evident throughout the city, giving a kaleidoscope of different building styles that somehow seem to fit with the world-leading modern architectural styles found in such buildings as the Kamppi Chapel of Silence (below left) and the circle-shaped Ympyratalo office building in th Hakaniema district.
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Some 150 years before independence the city was decimated when the 1770 plague killed more than a third of the population, many of whom were buried in a city park and this is now commemorated by some remaining grave sites. The city began to recover when Sweden built a massive naval fortress at Sveaborg (now known as Suomenlinna) a few years later (see our story on the fort). Unfortunately about a quarter of the city was then destroyed by fire in 1808, causing another major setback in its development.
Four years later in 1812 the Russian Emperor Alexander 1 moved the capital of Finland from Turku to Helsinki to take the capital closer to St Petersburg and reduce Swedish influence in the country. Then, when a great fire destroyed the country’s only university which was in Turku it was also moved and became today’s modern University of Helsinki. The city then began to be gain greater infrastructure and the downtown centre was rebuilt based on the style of buildings in St Petersburg.
Four years later in 1812 the Russian Emperor Alexander 1 moved the capital of Finland from Turku to Helsinki to take the capital closer to St Petersburg and reduce Swedish influence in the country. Then, when a great fire destroyed the country’s only university which was in Turku it was also moved and became today’s modern University of Helsinki. The city then began to be gain greater infrastructure and the downtown centre was rebuilt based on the style of buildings in St Petersburg.
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The Helsinki Cathedral, completed in 1952, is still one of the most prominent buildings in the city and a new city plan was created by architect Carl Ludwig Engel, with a major feature being the Senate Square (above left) surrounded by the Cathedral on the north; the Government Palace on its eastern side, which still features the changing of the guard; and the University on the west.
