Incredible Istanbul: A Flying Visit by Eve Pearce
The last time I visited Istanbul I was only able to stay for one day because I was catching a connecting flight andtraveling on to India, but the memories that I have of my flying visit are still poignantly fresh six months later, mostly due to the city's astounding beauty and fascinating culture. I stayed with a friend of my grandfather's who had lived in Istanbul for over a decade teaching English, and the location of his flat in Cukurcuma, just north-west of the 5000 year-old Galata Tower, was an ideal base from which to set out on foot to explore the vibrancy of what is one of the oldest human settlements on earth and the only city in the world that straddles two continents.
The Grand Bazaar
We started the morning with coffee from a street cafe next to the Grand Bazaar. Turkish coffee is incredibly strong and thick, and after drinking it some of the local vendors will read your fortune from the sludgy grains remaining in the cup. The Grand Bazaar – Kapali Carsi – is the oldest and biggest market in the world, containing over 4000 shops selling jewellery, carpets, leather and Turkish delight. Its easy to get lost among the labyrinth of unique stores, and the necessary bargaining soon reveals the local people's innately playful and warm manner. The Bazaar's stained glass ceiling colours the light that shines through the domes and makes the precious rocks, silver and gold gleam all the more, while smells of spices and incense waft through the air. I visited on a Saturday meaning the Bazaar was absolutely packed and we ended up rather sweaty after a few hours, so headed for Süleymaniye Hamman.
Suleymanie Hamman
This traditional Turkish bath was designed by the famous architect Mimar Sinan – also responsible for Hagia Sophia and Süleymaniye Mosque– and built in 1557. The arching domes of the stone structure are exceptionally beautiful and the intricate marble of the interior matches even the complexity of the Byzantine mosaics in Hagia Sophia. It is also the only Turkish baths in Istanbul where women and men are able to bathe together. Suitably refreshed, we had lunch at the restaurant on the other side of the square. Turkish pizza and humous was followed by kofte kebab with red bell peppers and a pint of Efes, before we hopped on a tram over the Galata Bridge - lined with fishermen pulling sea bass, bream and mackerel from the Bosphorus ready for evening service in the city's riverside restaurants – and through the area of Otakoy to the Inonu stadium to watch a football match between Besiktas versus Fenerbahce.
The Inonu Stadium
The atmosphere in the stadium was completely astounding due to the raucous chanting on the crowds that is orchestrated with a call and response pattern which bounces round different sections of the crowd. There is a fierce local rivalry between these two sides. Flare after flare emitted glowing red smoke and the noise was unbelievable, as was the view across the Bosphorus Strait from the top tier where we were sat. After the match the streets around the stadium remained packed for hours with fans singing and beating drums. We walked back alongside the river because the trams were too packed and stopped into a nargile cafe near the Istanbul Tate Modern to enjoy an apple-flavoured shisha accompanied by a cup of cay.
Istiklal and Beyoglu
In the evening we headed to Lebiderya in Istiklal Caddesi for dinner. This rooftop restaurant offers stunning views over the metropolis of stunning splendour, as Planet Cruise refers to Istanbul, and the cuisine is also exceptional: our meze starter of a dozen or so dishes included succulent grilled octopus and olives stuffed with feta and walnuts, and was followed by grilled fish with sauteed seasonal greens, and then baklava with ice cream for dessert. We then walked the twenty minutes or so to Beyoglu to enjoy a bottle of raki, the ouzo-esque local spirit which tastes of liquorice and can have up to 45 per cent alcohol content. We spent the evening watching people stroll by and enjoying the warm night air.
Araf
At around eleven we headed to Araf, a bar and club just round the corner on Hüseyinağa Mahallesi. There are live gypsy and soul bands most nights of the evening, and on the weekends the music continues all night with DJs playing funk and reggae over two different floors. There is also a roof-top balcony with awnings, cushions and shisha, and we danced through the night. I caught my connecting flight at dawn having not been to bed and consequently slept all the way to India. I can't wait to return and am hoping that next time I'll have a little more time to soak up the city's unique delights.
