Lebanon & Beirut
Golden beaches and stunning mountain landscapes are part of the Lebanese backdrop. Landscapes change with the seasons, but are always basking in the warm sun.
Each day in Lebanon brings endless opportunities of fun, beach, nature and outdoor activities. You'll be spoilt for choices of things to do in what could be described as a tourist’s dream holiday.
Each day in Lebanon brings endless opportunities of fun, beach, nature and outdoor activities. You'll be spoilt for choices of things to do in what could be described as a tourist’s dream holiday.
Beirut on the cheap: is it possible? Story and photography by Robert Schrader
Mention of the name “Beirut” might not get you much reaction in a room of random people these days, aside from “Where’s That?” As someone who spent his first grade year glued to a me-sized world map hung on my wall, however, I knew exactly where it was.
Of course, this can’t all be attributed to lacking geographical knowledge. While Beirut has been a popular getaway for affluent Europeans since at least 1943, when the country’s independence gained international recognition, Lebanon was consumed in a massive civil war from 1975-1990, one that took some 200,000 lives. The tourist industry began a slow but steady recovery, but again sustained major damage following the 2006 war between Israel and Hezbollah.
So although Beirut and Lebanon appeared on the map that I had in my room one year after the Civil War ended, it’s doubtful to me that most tourists would’ve had it on their proverbial maps for some time after the fighting stopped.
Lebanon’s tourism industry still being in a re-development phase has one negative consequence for informed people who do end up going — namely, Beirut is notoriously expensive, something I didn’t fully understand until I couldn’t find a hotel room anywhere in the city under $100 per night.
Of course, this can’t all be attributed to lacking geographical knowledge. While Beirut has been a popular getaway for affluent Europeans since at least 1943, when the country’s independence gained international recognition, Lebanon was consumed in a massive civil war from 1975-1990, one that took some 200,000 lives. The tourist industry began a slow but steady recovery, but again sustained major damage following the 2006 war between Israel and Hezbollah.
So although Beirut and Lebanon appeared on the map that I had in my room one year after the Civil War ended, it’s doubtful to me that most tourists would’ve had it on their proverbial maps for some time after the fighting stopped.
Lebanon’s tourism industry still being in a re-development phase has one negative consequence for informed people who do end up going — namely, Beirut is notoriously expensive, something I didn’t fully understand until I couldn’t find a hotel room anywhere in the city under $100 per night.
Beirut Hotels
There are plenty of hotels in Beirut, but finding a cheap place to sleep is difficult.
I put the finishing touches on my planned promenade through the Middle East from a fan-cooled hostel room in Bangkok’s Khao San Road district. Although I generally advise against booking too many things in advance, it was my first time to the Middle East. I wasn’t sure, but I had a feeling the tourist infrastructure wouldn’t be nearly as well-developed as it was in Southeast Asia.
Needless to say, I was pretty shocked at the results I found when I looked for hotels in Beirut traditional means, such as Orbitz and Travelocity — no hotel or guesthouse rooms were available for under $100 a night, most at least $150. Worse, HostelWorld had only five listings for the entire city and every single one of them was booked. I did end up finding a decently-priced room eventually (specifically, at the University Hotel near the American University of Beirut), thanks to Lonely Planet’s hotel search engine. Still, its $40 per night price was high for how ramshackle the facility it was, good location notwithstanding. I got robbed by the maid once, but twice.
The moral of the story is that if you want to visit Beirut but can’t spend a lot of money on accommodation, stay at the University Hotel and make the best of your situation. Otherwise, be prepared to pay at least $150 per night for a hotel in Beirut. Start your search on a local site, such as LebHotels.com.
There are plenty of hotels in Beirut, but finding a cheap place to sleep is difficult.
I put the finishing touches on my planned promenade through the Middle East from a fan-cooled hostel room in Bangkok’s Khao San Road district. Although I generally advise against booking too many things in advance, it was my first time to the Middle East. I wasn’t sure, but I had a feeling the tourist infrastructure wouldn’t be nearly as well-developed as it was in Southeast Asia.
Needless to say, I was pretty shocked at the results I found when I looked for hotels in Beirut traditional means, such as Orbitz and Travelocity — no hotel or guesthouse rooms were available for under $100 a night, most at least $150. Worse, HostelWorld had only five listings for the entire city and every single one of them was booked. I did end up finding a decently-priced room eventually (specifically, at the University Hotel near the American University of Beirut), thanks to Lonely Planet’s hotel search engine. Still, its $40 per night price was high for how ramshackle the facility it was, good location notwithstanding. I got robbed by the maid once, but twice. The moral of the story is that if you want to visit Beirut but can’t spend a lot of money on accommodation, stay at the University Hotel and make the best of your situation. Otherwise, be prepared to pay at least $150 per night for a hotel in Beirut. Start your search on a local site, such as LebHotels.com.
I put the finishing touches on my planned promenade through the Middle East from a fan-cooled hostel room in Bangkok’s Khao San Road district. Although I generally advise against booking too many things in advance, it was my first time to the Middle East. I wasn’t sure, but I had a feeling the tourist infrastructure wouldn’t be nearly as well-developed as it was in Southeast Asia.
Needless to say, I was pretty shocked at the results I found when I looked for hotels in Beirut traditional means, such as Orbitz and Travelocity — no hotel or guesthouse rooms were available for under $100 a night, most at least $150. Worse, HostelWorld had only five listings for the entire city and every single one of them was booked. I did end up finding a decently-priced room eventually (specifically, at the University Hotel near the American University of Beirut), thanks to Lonely Planet’s hotel search engine. Still, its $40 per night price was high for how ramshackle the facility it was, good location notwithstanding. I got robbed by the maid once, but twice.
The moral of the story is that if you want to visit Beirut but can’t spend a lot of money on accommodation, stay at the University Hotel and make the best of your situation. Otherwise, be prepared to pay at least $150 per night for a hotel in Beirut. Start your search on a local site, such as LebHotels.com.
There are plenty of hotels in Beirut, but finding a cheap place to sleep is difficult.
I put the finishing touches on my planned promenade through the Middle East from a fan-cooled hostel room in Bangkok’s Khao San Road district. Although I generally advise against booking too many things in advance, it was my first time to the Middle East. I wasn’t sure, but I had a feeling the tourist infrastructure wouldn’t be nearly as well-developed as it was in Southeast Asia.
Needless to say, I was pretty shocked at the results I found when I looked for hotels in Beirut traditional means, such as Orbitz and Travelocity — no hotel or guesthouse rooms were available for under $100 a night, most at least $150. Worse, HostelWorld had only five listings for the entire city and every single one of them was booked. I did end up finding a decently-priced room eventually (specifically, at the University Hotel near the American University of Beirut), thanks to Lonely Planet’s hotel search engine. Still, its $40 per night price was high for how ramshackle the facility it was, good location notwithstanding. I got robbed by the maid once, but twice. The moral of the story is that if you want to visit Beirut but can’t spend a lot of money on accommodation, stay at the University Hotel and make the best of your situation. Otherwise, be prepared to pay at least $150 per night for a hotel in Beirut. Start your search on a local site, such as LebHotels.com.
Transport in Beirut
Getting a taxi in Beirut can be difficult, even for local Lebanese. When I booked my room at the University Hotel online, I received an offer for a fixed-rate taxi to meet me at the Beirut airport when I arrived. Twenty dollars, the receptionist said, was the rate I’d pay for a taxi anyway. This arrangement saved me the hassle of finding one.
I attempted to research away around the expenditure — I avoid taking taxis whenever possible — but was quickly dismayed at what I found: By all accounts, the only means of public transport from the airport into Beirut’s city center was a bus that ran once an hour and picked up over a mile past the airport exit.
Inter-city taxis aren’t expensive, but they can be hard to find. Many are unlabeled or poorly labeled and are difficult to flag down even if you do see one. Want to take a bus? Good luck. Buses in Beirut don’t exist in the traditional sense. Rather, owners of large vans and trucks operate private share taxis that even local Lebanese have a problem spotting sometimes.
Getting in and out of the country by air ranges from moderate — I paid about $120 one-way to fly from Dubai on FlyDubai — to outrageous, with my 45-minute Royal Jordanian flight to Amman costing me 230 big ones. Lebanon also has a flag carrier, Middle East Airlines, which flies to surrounding cities and countries.Getting in and out of Lebanon can be cheap or expensive, depending on your requirements.
For obvious reasons, it is not possible to cross into Israel by land — and if you do want to get to Jordan by taxi, also an expensive prospect, you must pass through Syria.
My best advice? Walk wherever you can. Beirut’s urban core is small enough that you can conceivably walk wherever you need to go, particularly if your itinerary is on the more flexible side.
As I got into the cab that took me to Beirut airport the morning I left Lebanon for Jordan, I was shocked to see that my hotel’s night manager was already inside. He invited me in anyway and we chatted on the way to the airport, a route that happened to take him close to his home.
Before he got out, I asked him how much I should give the driver, since we hadn’t agreed on a rate.
“15,000 pounds,” he said. “Ten dollars.”
“That’s curious,” I said. “Someone at your hotel told me that the $20 I paid for my taxi from the airport was a good price.”
He signaled to the driver that his stop was near and opened his door as the car finished rolling to a stop. “We lied.” He smiled and stepped out of the car.
When I booked my room at the University Hotel online, I received an offer for a fixed-rate taxi to meet me at the Beirut airport when I arrived. Twenty dollars, the receptionist said, was the rate I’d pay for a taxi anyway. This arrangement saved me the hassle of finding one.
I attempted to research away around the expenditure — I avoid taking taxis whenever possible — but was quickly dismayed at what I found: By all accounts, the only means of public transport from the airport into Beirut’s city center was a bus that ran once an hour and picked up over a mile past the airport exit.
Inter-city taxis aren’t expensive, but they can be hard to find. Many are unlabeled or poorly labeled and are difficult to flag down even if you do see one. Want to take a bus? Good luck. Buses in Beirut don’t exist in the traditional sense. Rather, owners of large vans and trucks operate private share taxis that even local Lebanese have a problem spotting sometimes.
Getting in and out of the country by air ranges from moderate — I paid about $120 one-way to fly from Dubai on FlyDubai — to outrageous, with my 45-minute Royal Jordanian flight to Amman costing me 230 big ones. Lebanon also has a flag carrier, Middle East Airlines, which flies to surrounding cities and countries.
I attempted to research away around the expenditure — I avoid taking taxis whenever possible — but was quickly dismayed at what I found: By all accounts, the only means of public transport from the airport into Beirut’s city center was a bus that ran once an hour and picked up over a mile past the airport exit.
Inter-city taxis aren’t expensive, but they can be hard to find. Many are unlabeled or poorly labeled and are difficult to flag down even if you do see one. Want to take a bus? Good luck. Buses in Beirut don’t exist in the traditional sense. Rather, owners of large vans and trucks operate private share taxis that even local Lebanese have a problem spotting sometimes.
Getting in and out of the country by air ranges from moderate — I paid about $120 one-way to fly from Dubai on FlyDubai — to outrageous, with my 45-minute Royal Jordanian flight to Amman costing me 230 big ones. Lebanon also has a flag carrier, Middle East Airlines, which flies to surrounding cities and countries.Getting in and out of Lebanon can be cheap or expensive, depending on your requirements.
For obvious reasons, it is not possible to cross into Israel by land — and if you do want to get to Jordan by taxi, also an expensive prospect, you must pass through Syria.
My best advice? Walk wherever you can. Beirut’s urban core is small enough that you can conceivably walk wherever you need to go, particularly if your itinerary is on the more flexible side.
As I got into the cab that took me to Beirut airport the morning I left Lebanon for Jordan, I was shocked to see that my hotel’s night manager was already inside. He invited me in anyway and we chatted on the way to the airport, a route that happened to take him close to his home.
Before he got out, I asked him how much I should give the driver, since we hadn’t agreed on a rate.
“15,000 pounds,” he said. “Ten dollars.”
“That’s curious,” I said. “Someone at your hotel told me that the $20 I paid for my taxi from the airport was a good price.”
He signaled to the driver that his stop was near and opened his door as the car finished rolling to a stop. “We lied.” He smiled and stepped out of the car.
When I booked my room at the University Hotel online, I received an offer for a fixed-rate taxi to meet me at the Beirut airport when I arrived. Twenty dollars, the receptionist said, was the rate I’d pay for a taxi anyway. This arrangement saved me the hassle of finding one.
I attempted to research away around the expenditure — I avoid taking taxis whenever possible — but was quickly dismayed at what I found: By all accounts, the only means of public transport from the airport into Beirut’s city center was a bus that ran once an hour and picked up over a mile past the airport exit.
Inter-city taxis aren’t expensive, but they can be hard to find. Many are unlabeled or poorly labeled and are difficult to flag down even if you do see one. Want to take a bus? Good luck. Buses in Beirut don’t exist in the traditional sense. Rather, owners of large vans and trucks operate private share taxis that even local Lebanese have a problem spotting sometimes.
Getting in and out of the country by air ranges from moderate — I paid about $120 one-way to fly from Dubai on FlyDubai — to outrageous, with my 45-minute Royal Jordanian flight to Amman costing me 230 big ones. Lebanon also has a flag carrier, Middle East Airlines, which flies to surrounding cities and countries.
Food in Beirut
I mean, this really needs no words, right?
My first order of business upon arriving in Beirut was sinking my teeth into some delicious Lebanese food. I didn’t care what it was — hummus, shawerma, something I’d never seen or heard of. I got the latter.
Located right next to the University Hotel — and also opposite the McDonald’s that operates literally right underneath the hotel — was a hole-in-the-wall type place that had an absolutely otherworldly smell coming from it. It took only one glimpse at what people walking away from the restaurant were eating for me to want one.
Lahm Biajeen, as I’ve since learned the thing is called, can best be described as a Middle Eastern pizza without pizza sauce, and with minced meat seasoned with Lebanese spices as the chief topping, although additional ones such as cheese can be added. The price for this little miracle? Just 2,000 Lebanese pounds, or around $1.33. Local food (shawerma, hummus and falafel) can also generally be had cheaply in Beirut. When my friend Rami took me to his favorite falafel joint in Achrafiyeh, for example, the 4,000-pound price tag the shop set for the sandwich was low enough that I went next door, to his brother’s conspicuously-placed falafel shop and ordered the same thing, to compare. They were both awesome, of course — and I was stuffed full for less than five bucks. If you want to eat cheap but still eat well, few cities besides Beirut will suit you better.
My first order of business upon arriving in Beirut was sinking my teeth into some delicious Lebanese food. I didn’t care what it was — hummus, shawerma, something I’d never seen or heard of. I got the latter.
Located right next to the University Hotel — and also opposite the McDonald’s that operates literally right underneath the hotel — was a hole-in-the-wall type place that had an absolutely otherworldly smell coming from it. It took only one glimpse at what people walking away from the restaurant were eating for me to want one.
Lahm Biajeen, as I’ve since learned the thing is called, can best be described as a Middle Eastern pizza without pizza sauce, and with minced meat seasoned with Lebanese spices as the chief topping, although additional ones such as cheese can be added. The price for this little miracle? Just 2,000 Lebanese pounds, or around $1.33. Local food (shawerma, hummus and falafel) can also generally be had cheaply in Beirut. When my friend Rami took me to his favorite falafel joint in Achrafiyeh, for example, the 4,000-pound price tag the shop set for the sandwich was low enough that I went next door, to his brother’s conspicuously-placed falafel shop and ordered the same thing, to compare. They were both awesome, of course — and I was stuffed full for less than five bucks. If you want to eat cheap but still eat well, few cities besides Beirut will suit you better.
Activities in Beirut
Enjoy a cheap afternoon on Hamra Street -- but be prepared to pay up at night.
One definite advantage Beirut has for budget tourists is that the vast majority of where there is to do in the city is completely free.
There is no entrance fee, for example, to visit the statue at Martyr’s Square or enjoy views of the Al-Amin Mosque and its surrounding Roman ruins. Swimming in or walking along the stunning blue Mediterranean is also 100% free and a great way to spend an entire day in Beirut.
Of course, Beirut is almost home to a huge nightlife scene dominated by Gemmayze and Rue Gouraud. Although drink prices aren’t exorbitant
I remember paying around 4,000 pounds for a beer — things can get expensive quickly, particular in Gemmayze or near Hamra or Monot streets, although Hamra is a nice place for a cheap, daytime walk.
Need more specific ideas on how you can pass the time in Beirut without going broke? Check out my photo essay on Lebanon.
One definite advantage Beirut has for budget tourists is that the vast majority of where there is to do in the city is completely free.
There is no entrance fee, for example, to visit the statue at Martyr’s Square or enjoy views of the Al-Amin Mosque and its surrounding Roman ruins. Swimming in or walking along the stunning blue Mediterranean is also 100% free and a great way to spend an entire day in Beirut.
Of course, Beirut is almost home to a huge nightlife scene dominated by Gemmayze and Rue Gouraud. Although drink prices aren’t exorbitant
I remember paying around 4,000 pounds for a beer — things can get expensive quickly, particular in Gemmayze or near Hamra or Monot streets, although Hamra is a nice place for a cheap, daytime walk.
Need more specific ideas on how you can pass the time in Beirut without going broke? Check out my photo essay on Lebanon.
Currency in Lebanon
Thankfully, evening strolls along the Mediterranean are always free.
Most merchants in Lebanon accept the U.S. dollar in place of the Lebanese pound and honor the fixed 1 USD = 1,500 LBP exchange rate. In fact, the majority of ATMs in Beirut give out cash in dollars. Take advantage of this — don’t make the same mistake I did and withdraw all your money in pounds.
It’s not because pounds aren’t accepted everywhere; the are. But if you happen to be a penny-pinching warrior like me and stay significantly under budget like I did, you might end up getting stick with them permanently.
The primary reason for this is that no currency exchange counter exists at Beirut Airport once you pass through security, so if you have any significant number of pounds left, your only choice is to beg a merchant to give you change if you buy something — I was lucky enough to find one to help me. In exchange for a $5 fan that looked like it’d been made for ten cents, she gave me $47 I would’ve otherwise lost.
Another way to keep costs down in Beirut is simply to be smart with money. Bring U.S. dollars with you if you can and if you can’t, only withdraw money from the AT&T in U.S. dollars. Beyond the difficult you might have in exchanging pounds within Lebanon, it is difficult to exchange them in neighboring Jordan and Syria.
Most merchants in Lebanon accept the U.S. dollar in place of the Lebanese pound and honor the fixed 1 USD = 1,500 LBP exchange rate. In fact, the majority of ATMs in Beirut give out cash in dollars. Take advantage of this — don’t make the same mistake I did and withdraw all your money in pounds.
It’s not because pounds aren’t accepted everywhere; the are. But if you happen to be a penny-pinching warrior like me and stay significantly under budget like I did, you might end up getting stick with them permanently.
The primary reason for this is that no currency exchange counter exists at Beirut Airport once you pass through security, so if you have any significant number of pounds left, your only choice is to beg a merchant to give you change if you buy something — I was lucky enough to find one to help me. In exchange for a $5 fan that looked like it’d been made for ten cents, she gave me $47 I would’ve otherwise lost.
Another way to keep costs down in Beirut is simply to be smart with money. Bring U.S. dollars with you if you can and if you can’t, only withdraw money from the AT&T in U.S. dollars. Beyond the difficult you might have in exchanging pounds within Lebanon, it is difficult to exchange them in neighboring Jordan and Syria.
Enjoying Beirut without it's nightlife
Beirut, Lebanon’s capital, is known as one of the premier party spots for people who travel in Lebanon, as well as the great Middle East — and not without reason. Thanks in part to a healthy percentage of Christian and secular members, Lebanese society is far more moderate and open to Western libations that many of its neighbors. Its location on a peninsula that juts out into the deep, blue Mediterranean doesn’t hurt its cause either.
What some of you may not know about me is that I almost never drink or party when I travel. My travel in Lebanon was underscored by the fact that I’d spent the previous two weeks — which also happened to be the last two of the Holy Month of Ramadan — at a friend’s home in Muslim Malaysia, which meant alcohol was completely prohibited, my own personal discipline notwithstanding.
My friend Najwa, whom I traveled to Jordan the following week to see, also happened to be in Beirut when I was and invited me to meet her and some of her friends at a bar in the city’s Achrafiyeh area. Unfortunately, fatigue and my inability to speak Arabic left me unable to find the bar, in spite of the fact that I probably wouldn’t have had anything to drink had I located it.
I certainly wasn’t disappointed, having explored the city on foot for several days. Indeed, whether or not you take advantage of Beirut’s reputation as a nightlife destination, many a party are to be had in the Lebanese capital without setting foot inside a bar or club.
What some of you may not know about me is that I almost never drink or party when I travel. My travel in Lebanon was underscored by the fact that I’d spent the previous two weeks — which also happened to be the last two of the Holy Month of Ramadan — at a friend’s home in Muslim Malaysia, which meant alcohol was completely prohibited, my own personal discipline notwithstanding.
My friend Najwa, whom I traveled to Jordan the following week to see, also happened to be in Beirut when I was and invited me to meet her and some of her friends at a bar in the city’s Achrafiyeh area. Unfortunately, fatigue and my inability to speak Arabic left me unable to find the bar, in spite of the fact that I probably wouldn’t have had anything to drink had I located it.
I certainly wasn’t disappointed, having explored the city on foot for several days. Indeed, whether or not you take advantage of Beirut’s reputation as a nightlife destination, many a party are to be had in the Lebanese capital without setting foot inside a bar or club.
Hamra Street in Beirut
Hamra Street is the ideal place to get a shawerma in Beirut
I was lucky: My first day of travel in Beirut corresponded with the beginning of the Hamra Street Festival, a celebration of Lebanese culture and creativity that corresponds with the end of Ramadan. Even if you don’t plan to visit Lebanon in the middle of September, when the festival (and the end of the Holy Month) typically occurs, Hamra Street has a lot to offer.
Located just south of the American University of Beirut (A.U.B.) campus, to the west of Achrafiyeh and to the north of Manara, Hamra Street’s orientations between many of Beirut’s most famous areas gives it an eclecticism that requires a stroll up and down its complete length. The street is known as a more authentic part of Beirut due to its having survived the Lebanese Civil War andhas gained notoriety within the Middle East as a result — in other words, you can plan on having a lot of company walking with you. Hamra Street’s age relative to the rest of the Lebanese capital also means many of the buildings that stand along it are original, which creates an air of class and charm.
I promise Hamra Street is just as fun without the balloons
If you’re hungry, enjoy an authentic shawerma or falafel wrap at any of the dozens of stalls that sell them. Need a kick? Hamra Street is famous for its streetside cafés, where Lebanese intelligentsia have congregated for more than a century. At night and on the weekend — which is Friday and Saturday when you travel in Lebanon — Hamra Street is additionally replete with portable kiosks selling souvenirs, clothing and specialty food and drink.
I was lucky: My first day of travel in Beirut corresponded with the beginning of the Hamra Street Festival, a celebration of Lebanese culture and creativity that corresponds with the end of Ramadan. Even if you don’t plan to visit Lebanon in the middle of September, when the festival (and the end of the Holy Month) typically occurs, Hamra Street has a lot to offer.
Located just south of the American University of Beirut (A.U.B.) campus, to the west of Achrafiyeh and to the north of Manara, Hamra Street’s orientations between many of Beirut’s most famous areas gives it an eclecticism that requires a stroll up and down its complete length. The street is known as a more authentic part of Beirut due to its having survived the Lebanese Civil War andhas gained notoriety within the Middle East as a result — in other words, you can plan on having a lot of company walking with you. Hamra Street’s age relative to the rest of the Lebanese capital also means many of the buildings that stand along it are original, which creates an air of class and charm.
I promise Hamra Street is just as fun without the balloons
If you’re hungry, enjoy an authentic shawerma or falafel wrap at any of the dozens of stalls that sell them. Need a kick? Hamra Street is famous for its streetside cafés, where Lebanese intelligentsia have congregated for more than a century. At night and on the weekend — which is Friday and Saturday when you travel in Lebanon — Hamra Street is additionally replete with portable kiosks selling souvenirs, clothing and specialty food and drink.
Beirut Waterfront District
As you head north and east away from Hamra Street toward the water, it’s hard not to notice the dozens of cranes that rise into the air and the half-done highrises they’re working hard to fully complete. Part of a joint effort between the Lebanese Tourism Board and several investors to drive the numbers of foreigners who travel in Lebanon back up to where they were before the Civil War, the re-development of Beirut’s urban waterfront has been scheduled for completion since 2009, but the date keeps getting pushed back.
Looking out into Beirut's Harbor and Beyrouth Souks -- the actual Souks
In spite of still being very much a work in progress, the existing Beirut waterfront provides excellent views of both the sparkling, blue Mediterranean to the north and the sandy-colored city to the south. Its location around Beirut’s urban center, roughly equidistant between the eastern and western parts of the city, makes getting lost here almost impossible, so walk to your heart’s content without worry.
The walk from the waterfront back to the Hamra Streeet/A.U.B. is a pleasant — albeit uphill — affair, one that takes you up the grand General Fuad Chehab Boulevard the bisects the city. Upon reaching the top, you get a fabulous panorama of the redevelopment project, the nearby financial district (which is also under construction) and, of course, the sea. Snap a few pictures, turn around and follow signs to where you need to go.
Looking out into Beirut's Harbor and Beyrouth Souks -- the actual Souks
In spite of still being very much a work in progress, the existing Beirut waterfront provides excellent views of both the sparkling, blue Mediterranean to the north and the sandy-colored city to the south. Its location around Beirut’s urban center, roughly equidistant between the eastern and western parts of the city, makes getting lost here almost impossible, so walk to your heart’s content without worry.
The walk from the waterfront back to the Hamra Streeet/A.U.B. is a pleasant — albeit uphill — affair, one that takes you up the grand General Fuad Chehab Boulevard the bisects the city. Upon reaching the top, you get a fabulous panorama of the redevelopment project, the nearby financial district (which is also under construction) and, of course, the sea. Snap a few pictures, turn around and follow signs to where you need to go.
Beyrouth Souks and Martyr's Square
I’m not going to lie: When I first saw the sign that read “Beyrouth Souks,” I couldn’t help but mistake it for “Beyrouth Sucks.” Although I certainly wouldn’t agree with such a sentiment, it’s nonetheless a funny homophone.
About halfway up General Fuad Chehab Boulevard
The actual meaning of the word “souks” — “docks,” according to my friend Rami — is appropriate, given the Souks’ close proximity to the aforementioned Beirut Marina. It should take you about 15 minutes if you walk quickly. Want to hire a taxi? Good luck. As of July 2011, no proper “taxis” exist in Beirut. You can stand along the side of the road and hail cars that pass in hopes of one being a taxi, but walking is probably just as fast. This was one of the most frustration part of my Lebanon travel experience.
Of course, Beyrouth Souks isn’t a dock, but a shopping area where wealthy Lebanese and tourists get merchandise from their favorite high street retailers. As you can imagine I felt a bit out of place here, although Rami was nice enough to treat me to an incredible Lebanese lunch in one of the nearby restaurants. The Souks is nonetheless a nice place for a walk, if only to see another side of a country whose visible population is mostly lower class.
Martyr's Square
Beyrouth Souks sits on the other side of ruins — ones that reputedly date back to Roman times — from the Al-Amin mosque, where slain former Lebanese prime minister Rafic Harriri is laid to rest. Also close by is Martyr’s Square, a monument that sits in front of the mosque, dedicated to the memories of rebels hanged wanting to declare Lebanese independence from the Ottomans in the wake of World War I.
About halfway up General Fuad Chehab Boulevard
The actual meaning of the word “souks” — “docks,” according to my friend Rami — is appropriate, given the Souks’ close proximity to the aforementioned Beirut Marina. It should take you about 15 minutes if you walk quickly. Want to hire a taxi? Good luck. As of July 2011, no proper “taxis” exist in Beirut. You can stand along the side of the road and hail cars that pass in hopes of one being a taxi, but walking is probably just as fast. This was one of the most frustration part of my Lebanon travel experience.
Of course, Beyrouth Souks isn’t a dock, but a shopping area where wealthy Lebanese and tourists get merchandise from their favorite high street retailers. As you can imagine I felt a bit out of place here, although Rami was nice enough to treat me to an incredible Lebanese lunch in one of the nearby restaurants. The Souks is nonetheless a nice place for a walk, if only to see another side of a country whose visible population is mostly lower class.
Martyr's Square
Beyrouth Souks sits on the other side of ruins — ones that reputedly date back to Roman times — from the Al-Amin mosque, where slain former Lebanese prime minister Rafic Harriri is laid to rest. Also close by is Martyr’s Square, a monument that sits in front of the mosque, dedicated to the memories of rebels hanged wanting to declare Lebanese independence from the Ottomans in the wake of World War I.
Ramlet el Baida and Other Beirut Beaches
Although I was bound for a different, sandier place — namely Ramlet el Baida, Beirut’s only proper beach — I couldn’t help but gawk at the many rocky sunning spots that exists along the almost impossibly blue and clear Mediterranean as I headed south toward my destination. I’d been hankering for some beach time since the beginning of my travel in Lebanon.
Not surprisingly, I spent only a couple hours at Ramlet el Baida and set immediately to climbing over the first barrier that seemed safe on my way back. Reaching any of the rocks, which are not officially permitted for sunbathing or swimming, is a daunting task, one which requires a certain amount of agility and balance.
How could it hurt you when it looks so good?
Bring a thick towel along and once you find a place to sun yourself, lay it out before you lay yourself out — many local residents drink on the rocks and it isn’t uncommon to find shards of broken glass there. Likewise if you choose to swim, use caution when climbing back on the rocks, whose edges are sharp and jagged — and whatever you do, don’t get in the water when seas are choppy, unless you want to end up thrown up against the knife-like boulders.
If you enjoyed Robert's story you can read more from his blog at www.leaveyourdailyhell.com
Not surprisingly, I spent only a couple hours at Ramlet el Baida and set immediately to climbing over the first barrier that seemed safe on my way back. Reaching any of the rocks, which are not officially permitted for sunbathing or swimming, is a daunting task, one which requires a certain amount of agility and balance.
How could it hurt you when it looks so good?
Bring a thick towel along and once you find a place to sun yourself, lay it out before you lay yourself out — many local residents drink on the rocks and it isn’t uncommon to find shards of broken glass there. Likewise if you choose to swim, use caution when climbing back on the rocks, whose edges are sharp and jagged — and whatever you do, don’t get in the water when seas are choppy, unless you want to end up thrown up against the knife-like boulders.
If you enjoyed Robert's story you can read more from his blog at www.leaveyourdailyhell.com